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Paella is chill enough to know it’s best to be flexible in this crazy world, which is exactly why it fits in anywhere from a Colorado mountainside to a Spanish battlefield of yore. There’s no end to the combinations of glorious things that can be nestled in its generous pan, but for now, let’s say chef Dakota Soifer’s version with fresh shrimp, chorizo, and chicken is in the top five. At least.
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