Ice Cream Tasting with Edinburgh’s Cocktail Mad Scientist

At Edinburgh's Panda & Sons, founder Iain McPherson approaches mixology with the technical rigour of a dairy scientist. Known for crossing the boundaries between ice cream production and spirit manipulation, McPherson's work offers valuable lessons for chefs looking to control texture and concentrate flavour profiles through freezing. By applying sub-zero techniques to classic beverage builds, his lab challenges the traditional boundaries of liquid and solid pastry work.

The core of McPherson's philosophy lies in understanding how water behaves under extreme cold. In pastry and ice cream production, controlling crystallisation is paramount to achieving a smooth mouthfeel. McPherson applies these exact freezing principles to high-proofProofTo allow yeast-leavened dough to ferment and rise before baking. alcohol, allowing him to strip out unwanted water and rebuild spirits from the molecular level up. This crossover between the pastry kitchen's freezer and the back bar highlights how understanding phase transitions can redefine standard prep.

The Mechanics of "Switching"

One of the most notable developments to come out of the Edinburgh lab is 'Switching'. This process involves freezing spirits to isolate and remove their water content. Once the water is frozen out, it is replaced with another liquid, such as a clarified fruit juice, tea, or a hydrosol. This technique does not merely dilute the spirit; it integrates a new flavour dimension directly into the alcohol's structure without altering its proofProofTo allow yeast-leavened dough to ferment and rise before baking. or losing the base spirit's distinct characteristics. For pastry chefs, this method offers a blueprint for infusing alcohol-heavy glazes, sorbets, and frozen elements without introducing excess water that would otherwise ruin the set or texture of a dish.

Redefining Pressure and Cold

Alongside Switching, McPherson utilises 'Sous Pression' to alter how flavours infuseInfuseTo extract flavour from an ingredient by steeping it in a liquid. under pressure and cold temperatures. By manipulating these variables, the lab produces cocktails and ice cream pairings with hyper-concentrated profiles. The takeaway for the modern kitchen is clear: temperature is not just a storage state; it is an active tool for flavour extraction. Applying these sub-zero techniques allows for cleaner, more intense flavour releases that remain stable, showing that the line between the kitchen's pastry department and the bar is rapidly disappearing.