50 Best

Inside Line in Athens

20 September 2026 · 1:17 watch

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Discover how Line in Athens, Europe's Best Bar 2026, bridges the gap between kitchen and bar through custom fruit fermentations, a shared pantry system, and precision baking.

Key takeaways

  • Alternative wine fermentation allows kitchens to design custom drink pairings using non-grape bases like pomegranate, tomato, and honey.
  • A shared pantry system between kitchen and bar turns fermentation by-products into house vinegars, syrups, and glazes.
  • Balancing non-grape ferments requires careful monitoring of sugars and acids, as alternative fruits lack the natural chemical balance of grapes.
  • Pair rich, fat-heavy dishes like Basque cheesecake with high-acid, tannic fruit wines to cut through richness and cleanse the palate.

At Line in Athens, the traditional division between the kitchen and the bar is entirely dissolved. For chefs looking to integrate their food menus with a progressive beverage program, Line provides a masterclass in closed-loop hospitality. The establishment focuses on intensive in-house production, crafting their own beers, vinegars, syrups, breads, and alternative wines. This cohesive approach ensures that every element on the plate and in the glass shares a common DNA of fermentationFermentationA biological process in which microorganisms transform sugars and other compounds, creating acidity, gas, alcohol or complex flavours..

Crafting "Why-Ins" Through Alternative Fermentation

At the core of Line’s beverage identity is their proprietary range of "Why-Ins"—wines produced entirely without grapes. For chefs and beverage directors, this technique represents an open field for flavour development. By fermenting alternative bases, you can control the exact acidity, sweetness, and tannin structure to match your food.

The menu showcases both subtle and highly complex profiles. For a lighter, cleaner profile, they fermentFermentTo transform food through controlled microbial activity. Cretan orange flower honey. On the experimental end, they run fermentations utilising pomegranate, rose, smoke, tomato, and walnut. The technical lesson here is the management of non-grape sugars; because fruits like pomegranate or tomato do not naturally possess the balance of sugar and acid found in wine grapes, the fermentationFermentationA biological process in which microorganisms transform sugars and other compounds, creating acidity, gas, alcohol or complex flavours. must be carefully monitored, often adjusted with house-made syrups or vinegars to achieve a clean finish.

Closed-Loop Kitchen and Bar Integration

The collaboration between the kitchen and bar relies on a shared pantry. By-products from the bar's wine and beer-making processes are funnelled directly into the kitchen to be turned into vinegars, pickling liquids, and glazeGlazeA shiny coating applied to food to add flavour, colour, moisture or visual finish. bases. Conversely, kitchen off-cuts feed the bar's syrup and cordial program. House-baked breads and fermented sides anchor the savoury menu, creating a seamless transition from plate to glass.

This philosophy extends to the dessert course, featuring a signature Basque-style cheesecake. Baked to achieve a deeply caramelised, dark exterior while keeping the centre fudgy and creamy, the richness of the cheese stands up to the sharp, complex acidity of the alternative fruit wines. This pairing highlights how heavy, fat-rich dishes can be balanced by the structured tannins of non-grape ferments, proving that a kitchen can build a complete, self-sustaining pairing menu without relying on traditional vineyards.

Questions from the pass

Frequently asked questions

How do you ferment fruits other than grapes to make wine?

Fermenting non-grape fruits, known as making "Why-Ins," requires adjusting the sugar and acid levels manually. Since fruits like pomegranate or tomato lack the natural balance of wine grapes, you must introduce external sugars or yeasts to achieve the correct alcohol by volume (ABV) and use house vinegars or citrus to balance the final acidity.

What is the benefit of a closed-loop kitchen and bar system?

A closed-loop system minimises waste and ensures flavour consistency across the menu. By-products from bar fermentations can be converted into culinary vinegars or glazing syrups, while kitchen scraps can infuse spirits or sweeten cordials. This shared pantry approach lowers ingredient costs and creates a cohesive dining experience.

How do you pair alternative fruit wines with heavy desserts?

Pair rich, fat-heavy desserts with high-acid, structured alternative wines to cleanse the palate. For example, a caramelized Basque cheesecake pairs exceptionally well with a sharp tomato or pomegranate wine. The vibrant acidity cuts through the dairy fat, while the tannins mimic the mouthfeel of a traditional red wine.

How do you achieve the perfect texture in a Basque cheesecake?

To achieve the signature Basque cheesecake texture, bake it at a high temperature for a short duration. This caramelises the exterior rapidly while leaving the centre fudgy and barely set. Cooling the cheesecake completely before serving is essential to allow the interior creaminess to stabilise without becoming firm.

Original video by 50 Best. This overview is written independently by The Chef's Circle editorial desk — watch the original on YouTube.

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