How a Michelin Star Indian Chef Makes Chicken Curry at Home | Passport Kitchen | Epicurious

In this instalment of Epicurious’s Passport Kitchen, Michelin-starred chef Akshay Bhardwaj demystifies the classic, comforting chicken curry of his childhood in New Delhi. While designed for the home kitchen, the techniques Bhardwaj showcases provide invaluable lessons for professional chefs looking to capture authentic, deeply layered Punjabi flavours without relying on heavy restaurant-style gravy bases.\n\n## The Foundation: Building Depth through Bhuna\nThe soul of a traditional New Delhi chicken curry lies in the bhuna process—the meticulous, slow frying of onions, ginger, garlic, and spices. Bhardwaj demonstrates how patience at this stage dictates the entire flavour profile of the dish. Chefs must resist the urge to rush the onion caramelisation; they must be cooked down until sweet, jammy, and deeply golden. Introducing the ginger-garlic paste at the correct moment ensures its pungent raw edge is cooked out without letting it scorch, which would otherwise introduce bitterness to the delicate spice blend.\n\n## Balancing Spices and Acid\nOnce the aromatics are established, the sequence of adding ground spices and tomatoes is critical. Bhardwaj highlights how the tomatoes serve a dual purpose: they halt the browning of the onions and provide the necessary acidity to cut through the richness of the chicken. The spices are bloomed directly in the fat released by the onion-tomato mixture, a technique that coaxes out oil-soluble volatile compounds. This creates a cohesive emulsion rather than a sauce where spices sit separately on the palate.\n\n## Managing Moisture and Bone-In Flavour\nA common pitfall in domestic-style curries is dry, overcooked breast meat or a thin, watery sauce. Bhardwaj advocates for using bone-in chicken pieces, which yield far superior gelatin and depth of flavour compared to boneless cuts. The chicken is seared directly in the aromatic base, allowing its natural juices to mingle with the concentrated masala. Gentle simmering ensures the meat remains succulent whilst the sauce naturally reduces to a glossy, clinging consistency. The final adjustment of water allows the chef to control the viscosity depending on whether the dish is destined for flatbreads or rice.