New One MICHELIN Star restaurant Akar (Malaysia)

Technical Execution of Crispy-Scaled Fish

Akar's recent lift to one MICHELIN star highlights a masterclass in modern Malaysian culinary identity. At the heart of their philosophy is the refined preparation of local river fish, a protein traditionally celebrated but rarely given the fine-dining spotlight. This dish demonstrates how to masterfully execute the crispy-scale technique—often associated with Japanese matsubakayaki—whilst grounding the plate in deep, regional flavour profiles. For professional chefs, the takeaway here is the precise control of surface moisture and oil temperature required to puff fish scales to a delicate crackle without overcooking the pristine, tender flesh beneath.

Building Depth with Broths and Infusions

The dish is anchored by a rich, emulsified fisherman’s broth that serves as the plate's liquid foundation. Achieving the desired silkiness without relying on heavy dairy requires a thorough extraction of collagen from local fish bones, coupled with precise reduction and emulsification techniques. This deep, savoury base is balanced and cut through by a vibrant wild ginger chili oil. Using wild ginger (known locally as bunga kantan or torch ginger flower) introduces a highly aromatic, citrusy, and floral heat. Chefs must carefully control the infusion temperature of the oil to extract these volatile floral notes without scorching the delicate ginger and chili solids.

Textural and Structural Balance on the Plate

The plating strategy leverages contrast as a core driver of taste. The crackling, crisp texture of the fish scales provides a stark sensory counterpoint to the velvet-like consistency of the broth. When executing this dish, maintaining this textural integrity from pass to table is critical. Any premature contact between the crispy scales and the hot fisherman’s broth will immediately soften the crunch. Therefore, the broth and wild ginger oil must be pooled beneath the fillet, allowing the pristine, scale-on crown of the fish to remain refined, dry, and perfectly crisp until the moment of consumption.