The only Wagyu named after its farmer at 3* Tohru

At Tohru in der Schreiberei in Munich, Chef Tohru Nakamura balances his German-Japanese heritage to produce clean, technically precise plates. This particular preparation showcases Ozaki Wagyu—the only Japanese beef named after its farmer—in a dual-textured format that highlights both cured and raw states. By serving a cured pastrami alongside a classic tartareTartareA preparation of finely chopped raw meat or fish seasoned and served uncooked., Nakamura explores the range of fat rendering and texture inherent in ultra-premium beef.

Dual-Textured Beef: Pastrami and Tartare

The foundation of the dish lies in treating the high-fat Ozaki beef in two distinct ways. First, Nakamura uses a cured pastrami preparation. Curing fat-heavy Wagyu requires precise timing; the curing process must firm up the fat structure without drawing out too much moisture, which would leave the beef leathery. The result is a melt-in-the-mouth texture where the fat dissolves at room temperature.

Contrasting this cured component is the raw tartareTartareA preparation of finely chopped raw meat or fish seasoned and served uncooked.. Nakamura folds finely diced piquillo peppers into the tartare. This adds a subtle, smoky sweetness and a slight textural bite that cuts through the rich, buttery mouthfeel of the raw Wagyu. Combining these two preparations on a single plate forces the kitchen to balance temperature and knife-work carefully—the tartare must be cut cleanly to avoid bruising the delicate meat, while the pastrami must be sliced paper-thin to ensure the fat melts instantly on the pass.

Balancing Fat with Acid and Salt

With an ingredient as rich as Ozaki Wagyu, managing palate-fatigue is the kitchen's primary challenge. Nakamura achieves balance through a carefully constructed ensemble of high-acid and high-salt elements. He incorporates a light Vienna sauce and "kimchiKimchiA Korean fermented vegetable preparation, commonly based on cabbage and seasoned with chilli, garlic and other aromatics. blanche"—a white, non-spicy fermented cabbage—to provide clean acidity and brightness. This acidity cuts through the beef fat, refreshing the palate between bites.

To finish, N25 caviar is spooned over the top. Rather than relying on standard sea salt to seasonSeasonTo add salt, acidity, herbs, spices or other flavouring to balance and enhance a dish. the raw beef, the kitchen uses the natural, briny depth of cured sturgeon roe. The mineral pop of the caviar complements the clean sweetness of the piquillo peppers and rounds out the umamiUmamiThe savoury taste associated with compounds such as glutamate and certain nucleotides. profile of the dish. For professional kitchens, this plate serves as a study in how to dress ultra-luxury beef without masking its natural characteristics.