How Master Spanish Chef José Andrés Makes Open-Fire Paella | Made to Order | Bon Appétit

In this masterclass from Bon Appétit, legendary Spanish chef José Andrés demonstrates the traditional art of crafting an authentic Valencian paella over an open fire. For professional chefs, paella is often misunderstood as a simple rice dish; in reality, it is an exercise in precise heat management, liquid ratios, and deliberate layering of flavours. Cooking over live fire lifts this process, introducing a clean, smoky complexity that cannot be replicated on a standard kitchen range.\n\n## Harnessing the Power of Open-Fire Cookery\nThe foundation of a spectacular paella lies in controlling the live flame. José Andrés cooks over an open wood fire, which provides the intense, wrapping heat required to simmer the stock evenly across the wide, shallow paella pan. Professional kitchens looking to replicate this technique must focus on wood selection and fire placement. The heat must be fierce initially to sear the chicken and caramelise the vegetables, building a rich sofregit directly in the pan. As the rice is added, the flame must be managed to allow for a steady, rolling simmer, ensuring the starch is released and the liquid is absorbed uniformly.\n\n## The Architecture of Rice and Stock\nAt the heart of the dish is Bomba rice, a short-grain Spanish variety prized for its ability to absorb up to three times its volume in liquid without breaking down. Andrés emphasises building a deep flavour profile from the ground up, utilising a saffron-infused stock that bathes the rice in floral aroma and a golden hue. The goal of this technique is two-fold: perfect absorption and the development of the socarrat—the highly coveted, deeply caramelised, crispy crust of rice at the bottom of the pan. Achieving this requires restraint; chefs must resist the urge to stir the rice once the stock is added, allowing the grains to settle and fry gently in the rendered fats at the base of the pan.\n\n## Avoiding Common Pitfalls\nThe most common error when preparing paella is uneven cooking. Without the wide heat source of a wood fire, the edges of the pan can remain cool while the centre burns. Andrés' method of open-fire cooking solves this by spreading the embers to create a consistent heat zone. Additionally, over-moisturising or under-seasoning the stock will lead to a soggy, bland result. Every component, from the initial browning of the chicken to the final resting period off the heat, must be executed with patience to ensure each grain of rice is distinct, tender, and intensely savoury.