Pro Chef Reacts To The Earliest Known Fried Chicken Recipe From 1736

Nathan Bailey’s 1736 cookbook, Dictionarium Domesticum, contains what is widely considered the earliest recorded recipe for fried chicken. For modern professional chefs, looking back at this 300-year-old method is more than a history lesson; it is an exploration of fundamental culinary science. While contemporary menus rely heavily on Southern-style double-dredged buttermilk chicken, this historical preparation reveals an entirely different approach to flavour and texture.

The Science of the Acid-Heavy Marinade

Unlike modern recipes that brineBrineA salt solution used to season, preserve or improve the moisture retention of food. chicken in salted buttermilk, the 1736 method relies on an intense, acid-heavy marinade of lemon juice, vinegar, or verjuice, combined with herbs and spices. From a technical standpoint, this high-acid bath acts as a chemical cureCureTo preserve and season food using salt, sugar, smoke, acid or combinations of these.. The acid denatures the proteins, effectively "pre-cooking" and tenderising the chicken while injecting sharp, clean top notes directly into the flesh. In a professional kitchen, this technique offers a much faster turnaround time than a traditional 24-hour dairy brine. However, chefs must monitor the marinating time closely; over-marinating in high acid can break down the muscle fibres too much, resulting in a mushy texture rather than a tender bite.

Wine Batter and Lard Frying

The batter in Bailey’s recipe replaces water or milk with wine or beer, a technique that modern food science fully supports. Alcohol evaporates at a lower temperature and much faster than water. When the battered chicken hits the hot fat, the rapid evaporation of the alcohol creates steam bubbles, puffing up the batter to yield an incredibly light, crisp, and thin crust. Additionally, alcohol inhibits gluten formation in the wheat flour, preventing the coating from becoming chewy or bready.

Frying the chicken in lard, rather than modern neutral vegetable oils, introduces a deep, savoury foundation. Animal fats provide a richer mouthfeel and a cleaner finish on the palate. For contemporary kitchens looking to implement these historical techniques, frying in high-quality lard or clarified butterClarified ButterButter from which water and milk solids have been removed, leaving predominantly butterfat. at a controlled temperature will replicate the authentic, robust flavour profile of the 18th century, offering a sophisticated alternative to standard deep-fried options.