How To Make Every Sushi | Method Mastery | Epicurious

In this masterclass from Epicurious, Takahiro Sakaeda, executive chef and co-owner of Nami Nori, demystifies the craft of sushi. For professional chefs looking to integrate authentic sushi elements into their menus or refine their brigade’s technique, Sakaeda’s step-by-step breakdown serves as a masterclass in precision, temperature control, and ingredient respect.

Mastering the Shari (Sushi Rice)

The foundation of all superior sushi is the shari (seasoned rice). Chef Sakaeda highlights that sushi is defined not by raw fish, but by the rice itself. Chefs will learn the critical nature of washing the grains thoroughly to remove excess starch, ensuring a clean, non-gummy texture. Once cooked, the hot rice must be seasoned with a precise ratio of sushi vinegar. The technique involves gently folding the vinegar into the rice using a cutting motion with a paddle (shamoji). This distributes the seasoning evenly while simultaneously cooling the rice to body temperature, giving it a characteristic glossy sheen without crushing the delicate grains.

Form and Structure Across Styles

Sakaeda demonstrates a wide array of classical and contemporary styles, proving that sushi construction is an exercise in structural engineering. From the elegant, hand-pressed nigiri—where the rice must be packed firmly enough to hold its shape but loosely enough to melt in the mouth—to the compressed layers of hakozushi (boxed sushi), each style requires a different manipulation of pressure.

For rolled variations, chefs are introduced to the nuances of hosomaki (thin rolls), futomaki (thick, multi-ingredient rolls), and uramaki (inside-out rolls). Sakaeda details the placement of ingredients and the precise use of the bamboo rolling mat (makisu). He emphasizes that nori reacts instantly to moisture; thus, speed and dry hands are paramount during assembly to prevent the seaweed from turning chewy before service.

Precision Knife Work and Presentation

The masterclass culminates in a study of knife skills, particularly in the preparation of sashimi and the delicate filling of ikura gunkan maki (battleship rolls). Slicing fish for nigiri and sashimi demands a razor-sharp yanagiba (sushi knife) and a single, fluid drawing motion from heel to tip. Sawing at the flesh destroys the delicate cellular structure of the fish, negatively impacting both mouthfeel and visual presentation. Ultimately, Sakaeda teaches chefs that master-level sushi relies on the synergy of temperature, texture, and clean, confident knife work.