INCREDIBLE 2 Michelin star IMPERIAL PIGEON at Ösch Noir, Germany, by Chef Manuel Ulrich

Manuel Ulrich’s signature main course at the two-Michelin-starred Ösch Noir demonstrates how to modernise rich game birds using precise acidic and fermented components. By pairing premium Imperial pigeon with a sharp rice vinegar jus, kimchi, and sesame, the kitchen avoids the heavy, cloying profile often associated with classic European pigeon preparations. Instead, this dish presents a masterclass in clean, modern plating where high-acid elements cut directly through the mineral-rich fat of the bird.

Executing the Pigeon and Balancing Flavours

When working with Imperial pigeon, the challenge lies in maintaining the succulent, rosy texture of the breast while ensuring the skin is perfectly rendered. Chefs watching this preparation will observe how the deep, gamey notes of the bird are balanced by an ultra-refined rice vinegar jus. Rather than relying on a classic heavy demi-glaceGlaceA stock reduced to a syrupy, intensely savoury glaze., the introduction of rice vinegar brings a clean acidity that cuts through the fat and lifts the finish of the dish.

The addition of kimchi introduces lactic fermentation, heat, and a complex funk, which contrasts beautifully with the iron-rich profile of the pigeon. To anchor these aggressive flavours, sesame is utilised to provide a toasted, nutty depth and a crucial textural contrast on the plate. Precision is key; the acidity of the jus and the pungency of the kimchi must be carefully balanced so they do not overwhelm the delicate game flavour of the bird, but rather frame it.

Front-of-House and Wine Integration

A dish with this level of complexity—combining game, vinegar-based acidity, and fermented heat—presents a unique challenge for the cellar team. At Ösch Noir, Sommelier Michael Häni manages the pairing strategy to complement these diverse profiles.

For a service of this calibre, the front-of-house must fully comprehend the kitchen's flavour architecture. Pairing wine with fermented elements like kimchi and acidic reductions like rice vinegar jus requires selecting bottles that offer either a high-acid structure to match the vinegar, or enough structural weight to withstand the heat without clashing with the delicate game meat. Understanding this interplay between the kitchen’s output and cellar selection is vital for delivering a cohesive dining experience in a luxury hotel setting.