Bon Appétit

How NYC’s Best Pad Thai is Made | Made to Order | Bon Appétit

15 August 2026 · 10:39 watch

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Discover how Chef Joel Chidensee Watthanawongwat of NYC's Soothr lifts traditional Pad Thai with precise noodle prep, authentic sauce balancing, and his signature egg net technique.

Key takeaways

  • Hydrate rice noodles by pre-soaking rather than boiling to maintain structural integrity and prevent mushiness during stir-frying.
  • Always use high-quality fish sauce instead of soy sauce to preserve the authentic, complex umami profile of the traditional sauce.
  • Balance the core flavour elements—sweet palm sugar, sour tamarind, and salty fish sauce—before assembling the dish.
  • Master the egg net technique to lift the dish's visual appeal and introduce a delicate texture to the final presentation.

In this masterclass from Bon Appétit, Chef Joel Chidensee Watthanawongwat of New York's acclaimed Thai restaurant Soothr deconstructs the art of the perfect Pad Thai. Focusing on Yaowarat (Bangkok Chinatown) style cuisine, Watthanawongwat reveals how to lift this globally recognised street food staple into a high-calibre restaurant dish. Professional chefs will gain valuable insights into noodle hydration, the critical balance of the signature sauce, and the theatre of the classic egg net presentation.

Essential Prep and Sauce Balancing

The foundation of any exceptional Pad Thai lies in noodle preparation and sauce composition. Rather than boiling, Chef Joel demonstrates the importance of pre-soaking the rice noodles to achieve the perfect al dente bite without risking mushiness during the final stir-fry.

For the sauce, Watthanawongwat emphasises the uncompromising use of traditional ingredients. A key pitfall for westernised iterations is substituting soy sauce for fish sauce; the chef insists that genuine fish sauce is non-negotiable for delivering the essential umami undertone. This is balanced against sour tamarind paste and palm sugar to build the complex sweet, sour, and salty profile that characterises authentic Thai cuisine.

Precision Stir-Frying and the Egg Net

When it comes to execution, the cooking order and heat management are paramount. The ingredients must be cooked rapidly over high heat in a wok to impart the signature smokiness while maintaining the integrity of individual components like prawns or chicken.

The standout visual element of Chef Joel’s preparation is his intricate egg net technique. Rather than scrambling the egg directly into the noodles, he creates an elegant, latticed egg net using a specialised pouring technique. This technique not only adds a premium aesthetic but also introduces a delicate texture that contrasts beautifully with the chew of the rice noodles. Understanding these nuanced techniques allows culinary professionals to refine their own noodle dishes, ensuring texture, seasoning, and presentation align with authentic standards.

Questions from the pass

Frequently asked questions

Why should you soak Pad Thai noodles instead of boiling them?

Soaking rice noodles in water allows them to hydrate slowly and evenly without cooking them through. Boiling them beforehand often leads to overcooking, causing the noodles to break apart, release excess starch, and turn mushy when tossed in the high heat of a wok during service.

Can soy sauce be used as a substitute for fish sauce in Pad Thai?

No, soy sauce cannot replicate the specific umami depth, aroma, and clean salinity that high-quality fish sauce provides. Chef Joel Watthanawongwat emphasises that fish sauce is a non-negotiable ingredient, as soy sauce alters the traditional profile and lacks the requisite fermented complexity.

How do you achieve the classic sweet-sour-salty balance in Pad Thai sauce?

The balance is achieved by carefully combining sour tamarind paste, sweet palm sugar, and salty fish sauce. Simmering these three components together allows the flavours to meld, creating a complex, well-rounded seasoning base that coats the noodles evenly without overwhelming any single taste.

What is the purpose of the egg net technique in modern Pad Thai presentation?

The egg net lifts the dish's presentation by wrapping the stir-fried noodles in a delicate, golden latticed shroud. Beyond its striking aesthetic appeal for premium restaurant service, the thin lace of egg introduces a light, airy texture contrast that complements the chewy bite of the rice noodles.

Original video by Bon Appétit. This overview is written independently by The Chef's Circle editorial desk — watch the original on YouTube.

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