We Cracked the Code on Viral Salt Bread (Shio Pan)

Shio pan, the Japanese salt bread that has captured global attention, presents a physical challenge for professional production kitchens. The bread is prized for two highly contrasting textures: a featherlight, buttery interior crumb and a crisp, butter-fried bottom crust. However, standard formulations suffer from rapid moisture migration, leaving the crust soggy within hours of baking. Chef Tim Chin of ChefSteps addresses this structural issue with a smart modernist intervention, introducing a gelatinised rice flour glazeGlazeA shiny coating applied to food to add flavour, colour, moisture or visual finish. that seals the exterior and preserves the crunch.\n\n## Starch GelatinisationGelatinisationThe process in which starch absorbs liquid and swells when heated, thickening a preparation. and Crumb Structure\nTo achieve the signature pillowy crumb, the formula relies on a classic tangzhong starter. By cooking a portion of the flour and liquid beforehand, the starches gelatinise and trap water within their matrix. This technique allows the dough to carry a higher hydration level without becoming slack or unmanageable on the bench. The resulting dough is highly elastic and resilient, rising predictably during the bulk and final proofing stages while retaining the structural integrity needed to support the high fat content.\n\n## Managing the Butter Block and Roll Geometry\nThe defining feature of shio pan is the cold butter block rolled into the centre of each bun. During the bake, this butter melts, laminating the inner layers of dough and pooling at the bottom to fry the base of the roll directly on the oven tray. Proper preparation of the butter block is critical: the butter must be cold enough to resist melting into the dough during shaping, yet pliable enough to be wrapped without tearing the dough. The rolls are shaped by rolling proofed portions into tapered triangles, wrapping the dough tightly around the butter, and rolling toward the tip to form a crescent.\n\n## The Chemistry of the Crunch Glaze\nBefore the rolls enter the deck or convection oven, they are coated with a cooked rice flour paste. This gelatinised starch glaze dries into a micro-thin, rigid shell under high heat. This layer provides a durable barrier against ambient humidity and internal steam migration, ensuring the rolls maintain their shatteringly crisp exterior long after cooling. For a bakery or restaurant line, this technique vastly extends the shelf life and quality window of the bake.