SNAILS, OYSTERS & a DUTCH SHRIMP XO-SAUCE by Kenny Friederichs at Latour (+ wine pairing!)

At the one-starred Restaurant Latour in Noordwijk, Executive Chef Kenny Friederichs showcases a brilliant exercise in modern European menu development. By pairing earthy land snails with saline oysters, Friederichs constructs a complex starter that bridges terrestrial and marine profiles. The binding element of the dish is an ingenious Dutch shrimp XO sauce, showing how classical Asian condiment techniques can be applied to local North Sea ingredients to deliver deep, savoury notes.

Localising the XO Technique

Traditional Cantonese XO sauce relies on dried scallops and cured ham to build its signature depth. Friederichs adapts this blueprint by utilising local Dutch brown shrimps as the primary umami driver. Chefs can learn from this approach by substituting traditional dried seafood with regional alternatives. The key is concentrating the natural sugars and salts of the shrimp through careful dehydration or intense reduction, creating a paste that balances heat, sweetness, and deep sea-salt savouriness. This intense condiment acts as the bridge between the distinct elements of the plate, cutting through the richness of the land snails while accentuating the sweet brine of the oysters.

Balancing Land and Sea Textures

Combining snails and oysters presents a unique textural challenge on the pass. Snails require slow cooking to break down tough muscle fibres, resulting in a firm, earthy bite. Conversely, oysters demand minimal intervention to preserve their delicate, silky structure and fresh sea liquor. Friederichs balances these contrasting textures by treating them as distinct components that meet only during final assembly. This ensures that the oyster does not lose its ozone quality under the warmth of the snails and the rich, spiced shrimp sauce.

Integrating the Sommelier's Perspective

A complex dish featuring spice, brine, and earthiness requires meticulous beverage matching. Sommelier Stan Kerckhoffs provides a masterclass in front-of-house integration, selecting a wine pairing capable of cutting through the rich, oily profile of the Dutch shrimp XO sauce without overpowering the delicate raw oyster. For culinary teams, this highlights the necessity of co-developing dishes alongside the wine programme, ensuring that acidity levels and fruit profiles in the glass actively balance the fat and heat on the plate.