The Famous Korean Street Food Vendor Of Anyang Market

In the heart of Anyang Market, two hours outside Seoul, lies a masterclass in high-volume, artisanal production. Alvin Zhou's profile of Mr. Song's Handmade Fishcakes demonstrates the pinnacle of fish paste manipulation—a technique highly relevant to any modern chef looking to lift farce, quenelles, or seafood charcuterie. For professional kitchens, the primary takeaway is the absolute control over the texture, emulsification, and binding properties of the fish paste.

The Chemistry of the Fish Emulsion

At the core of Mr. Song’s operation is a perfectly emulsified fish paste. Achieving the correct binding capability is paramount; the paste must be smooth, elastic, and hold enough moisture to remain tender after deep-frying. While the exact ratios are a closely guarded secret of his thirty-variety menu, the technique relies on high-speed blending to develop myosin proteins, which create a strong matrix. Chefs can replicate this by using chilled white fish fillets, salt, and starch, carefully controlling the temperature during processing to prevent the fat and protein from separating. Mr. Song also showcases visual innovation by blending natural vegetable pastes into the mixture, creating his famous five-colour specialty fish cakes without relying on artificial dyes.

Precision Hand-Shaping and Fillings

The true artistry lies in the physical shaping. Watching Mr. Song shape fish balls with his bare hands or roll precise cylinders reveals a deep muscle memory. For stuffed varieties—ranging from processed cheese to frankfurters—the paste must be spread thinly and evenly over a flat spatula, the filling placed in the centre, and then rolled seamlessly with a single, swift motion before being dropped directly into hot oil. This requires a paste that is pliable yet non-sticky. Pitfalls here include trapping air pockets, which expand during frying and rupture the casing, or uneven layering, leading to undercooked interior paste.

High-Volume Deep-Frying Operations

Maintaining oil temperature consistency is critical when frying dense, chilled fish paste. Mr. Song's setup uses large, open deep-fat fryers that allow for constant movement. The fish cakes must cook quickly enough to develop a light, golden-brown exterior while ensuring the interior elements, like cold cheese, are fully melted and hot. This operation requires constant vigilance, skimmed oil to prevent off-flavours, and rapid rotation to manage peak street-market demand.