Bon Appétit

How to Butcher an Entire Pig: Every Cut of Pork Explained | Handcrafted | Bon Appetit

15 August 2026 · 20:05 watch

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Master the art of whole-animal pork butchery with this professional guide from butcher Bryan Mayer, breaking down the five primal sections and uncovering high-value artisanal cuts.

Key takeaways

  • Mastering the five primal sections (shoulder, belly, loin, ham, and head) is essential for effective nose-to-tail menu planning.
  • Utilising natural muscle seams rather than sawing through muscle groups maximises yield and preserves individual muscle integrity.
  • Identifying high-value secondary cuts like the coppa, presa, and secreto allows kitchens to offer premium, highly marbled options.
  • Proper knife discipline and anatomical knowledge prevent scoring the meat, ensuring cleaner portions and more consistent cooking.

Understanding whole-animal butchery is a crucial discipline for any modern kitchen aiming to improve margins, minimise food waste, and offer unique, off-cut menu items. In this comprehensive guide, butcher and author Bryan Mayer walks through the intricate process of breaking down an entire pig carcass at Wyebrook Farm. Rather than focusing solely on standard commercial portions, Mayer explores the anatomical structures that yield both classic and artisanal cuts.

Breaking Down the Five Primal Sections

To master pork butchery, a chef must first understand the five primary primal sections: the pork shoulder, the belly, the loin, the ham (or butt), and the head. Mayer demonstrates how to navigate the carcass using natural muscle seams, which minimises waste and preserves the integrity of each muscle group.

Starting with the shoulder, chefs learn to separate the picnic shoulder from the collar (or Boston butt), which yields high-value cuts like the coppa. Moving along the carcass, the loin section is prepped, showing how to balance bone-in chops against boneless loins and the prized tenderloin. Mayer highlights the importance of precision knife work when separating the loin from the belly, ensuring the delicate belly remains intact for curing or slow-roasting.

Precision Knife Work and Pitfalls

A key takeaway for culinary professionals is the discipline required during the separation of the primals. One common pitfall in whole-carcass butchery is rushing through the seams, which can score the meat and ruin the appearance of premium cuts like the loin or the belly. Mayer's approach emphasizes using the weight of the carcass and natural gravity to help guide the knife, reducing physical strain on the butcher and ensuring clean, flat surfaces on the primals. Proper seam identification not only maximizes yield but also guarantees uniform cooking times across portioned cuts.

Maximising Yield and Artisanal Seams

What lifts this demonstration is the focus on secondary and specialised cuts that can lift a chef's menu. Mayer highlights coveted Spanish-style cuts such as the presa, secreto, and pluma—highly marbled, rich pieces of meat tucked within the shoulder and loin areas that are often lost in high-speed commercial processing.

By understanding where these seams lie, chefs can extract premium steaks that command high menu prices but require minimal prep. Additionally, utilising the head for terrines and turning trimmings into bespoke house-made sausages ensures that every gram of the carcass is magnetised. This guide serves as an invaluable blueprint for kitchens looking to transition to a nose-to-tail philosophy.

Questions from the pass

Frequently asked questions

What are the five primal sections of a pig carcass?

The five primal sections are the pork shoulder, the pork belly, the pork loin, the ham, and the head. Understanding these primals is the foundation of successful whole-animal butchery, allowing chefs to efficiently break down the carcass into clean, manageable portions for various culinary applications.

What is the difference between the Boston butt and the picnic shoulder?

The Boston butt is the upper part of the shoulder, known for its high marbling and suitability for slow-cooking or curing into coppa. The picnic shoulder is the lower portion, which is leaner, contains more connective tissue, and is ideal for roasting bone-in or grinding for sausages.

Where do coveted cuts like the secreto and presa come from?

These highly prized, Spanish-style cuts are found tucked within the shoulder and loin regions. The secreto is a thin, heavily marbled muscle hidden behind the shoulder joint, while the presa sits near the top of the shoulder collar, offering exceptional flavour and tenderness when grilled.

How does seam butchery benefit a professional kitchen compared to industrial portioning?

Seam butchery involves separating individual muscles along their natural connective tissue boundaries. This technique preserves the integrity of each muscle, reduces physical wastage, and allows chefs to extract premium individual cuts that cook more evenly than cross-cut, bone-in steaks produced by industrial band saws.

Main ingredients

Original video by Bon Appétit. This overview is written independently by The Chef's Circle editorial desk — watch the original on YouTube.

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